Graveur Philips CDD3610
Le début des graveurs avec Philips
La marque Philips a été une des pionnières à fabriquer des graveurs de CD destinés au grand public. Il y a eu le CDD2000 (2x4x SCSI), le classique CDD2600 (2x6x SCSI), le CDD3600 (2x2x6x SCSI) et enfin le CDD3610 pour la version IDE. Ainsi que tous leurs dérivés vendus en OEM ou à des sous-marques (Nomai, Traxdata, Racer, HP notamment).
Largement distribués dans les grandes surface entre 1997 et 2000 à un prix "abordable", ces mécaniques fonctionnent bien mais hélas beaucoup de possesseurs déplorent leur mince fiabilité. Une question de prix ? Il n'y a qu'à voir les témoignages laissés ici : cdr.1z.net > Vos avis sur les graveurs Philips.
C'était comment avant ?
Il s'agit là de véritables reliques, des ancêtres. Pour certains comme moi qui ont connu la joie des débuts de la gravure sur PC dans les années 90, que de galères. Les graveurs n'avaient pas de BurnProof et autre Seamless Link, si la mémoire tampon du graveur n'était pas remplie à temps par le PC alors le CD-R en cours de gravure était foutu. Le graveur s'arrêtait et éjectait simplement le CD à moitié gravé et tant pis pour ta pomme, un CD-R qui va finir à la poubelle. D'autant que les plus bas de gamme n'avait que 512ko voire 1Mo de cache rarement plus. Et à mon époque un CD-R c'était quand même 10 à 20 francs. Et encore c'était 70-90 francs dans les tous premiers temps. Donc lorsqu'on lançait la gravure on ne pouvait plus se servir de son PC sous peine de lancer une tâche trop lourde qui allait tout faire foirer. Et attention à bien désactiver l'écran de veille avant, aie s'il venait à se déclencher pendant que ça grave. Ce phénomène était moindre pour les graveurs à interface SCSI (moins d'occupation processeur).
Il faut se rappeler aussi que la gravure était faite en 1x, 2x ou 4x donc comptez entre 1h15 et 20 minutes pour graver un disque entier. Et dès fois selon la marque du CD-R et du graveur il y avait des incompatibilités et des taux de réussite (de gravure) très disparates selon les CD-R et les graveurs. Les uns appréciant plus telle ou telle marque (Maxell, Verbatim, Kodak, Sony). Pour ma part je connaissais bien le CDD2600, j'avais eu affaire à lui lorsque j'étais en radio, il est mort lui aussi comme les autres, malgré une tentative de réparation de ma part (simple nettoyage lentille).
La panne / la réparation
La grosse maladie de ces graveurs : la gravure plante au bout d'un moment, ou à partir du deuxième CD gravé à la suite. Solution : Il faut tout démonter le graveur et re-graisser les rails du bloc optique.
Citation :
I haven't had these, but there is a lot of discussion on the forum about problems longer term with the CDD3610.
I copy here some info, which may help you. Some of the problems clearly relate to successive burning (which I don't recommend).
Be warned: taking the drive apart will void your warranty (if you've still got one) and risks wrecking the drive.
But if the drive is not working anyway then you might give it a try (I haven't, but others have with success):
I just super-lubed the cylindrical rail guide that's on the right side of the laser, and cleaned off and lubed the left metal rail guide. (Of course, because of my lack of confidence, it took me three attempts. The first one was because I didn't see the four torx screws that held the main drive itself inside the top cover, the next because I couldn't move the laser assembly by hand...so I just had it read an audio CD's last track then turn it off...third time was a charm, and burnt my first 2x CD in months...)
Writing a single CD (be it audio or data only) has never been a problem in the 1 year I have owned my CDD 3610. In the last couple of months, however, the drive generates beautiful but expensive frisbees when I try to burn more than one CD in a row. I get a CD writer error. I also noticed that the CDs I burned in the first half year play in my car stereo without a problem, but the more recent CDs cause skipping or are being rejected by that same CD player.
Solution: The grease on the head-sledge-leadings and the spindle gets hard after some time (12month, 3days?) because of the high temperatures when burning. I opened the drive (not just the door) and used light weapon fat (not oil!) for air guns, sold in little white tubes, rather expensive, to grease it.
You can use silicon fat, but I think almost any temperature-resistant LIGHT fat will do it. Also clean the lens.
Just take a cotton bud moistened with a little bit of glass-cleaning-fluid. Be careful, because you could damage the suspension of the lens. Lubricating is effective in at least 95% of cases! (Thanks to Norbert Fischer for this tip)
Re Lubes: Super Lube is a bit thick for sled rails, I do use a little on sled gears, and a thin silicon based oil for the rails, comes as a service oil by a Creag I think. Panasonic charge NZ$100 for a Lube kit for servicing Audio CD's, some are greases and some are oils, these are in very small 18mm tubs, 3 or 4 from memory.
The Lube stuff sold for those Plastic nicad battery racing cars (Tamia?) would be good if it is still sold, they had special greases for plastic/metal and Silicon oils and at a good price. (Thanks to The Kiwi for this tip)
I haven't had these, but there is a lot of discussion on the forum about problems longer term with the CDD3610.
I copy here some info, which may help you. Some of the problems clearly relate to successive burning (which I don't recommend).
Be warned: taking the drive apart will void your warranty (if you've still got one) and risks wrecking the drive.
But if the drive is not working anyway then you might give it a try (I haven't, but others have with success):
I just super-lubed the cylindrical rail guide that's on the right side of the laser, and cleaned off and lubed the left metal rail guide. (Of course, because of my lack of confidence, it took me three attempts. The first one was because I didn't see the four torx screws that held the main drive itself inside the top cover, the next because I couldn't move the laser assembly by hand...so I just had it read an audio CD's last track then turn it off...third time was a charm, and burnt my first 2x CD in months...)
Writing a single CD (be it audio or data only) has never been a problem in the 1 year I have owned my CDD 3610. In the last couple of months, however, the drive generates beautiful but expensive frisbees when I try to burn more than one CD in a row. I get a CD writer error. I also noticed that the CDs I burned in the first half year play in my car stereo without a problem, but the more recent CDs cause skipping or are being rejected by that same CD player.
Solution: The grease on the head-sledge-leadings and the spindle gets hard after some time (12month, 3days?) because of the high temperatures when burning. I opened the drive (not just the door) and used light weapon fat (not oil!) for air guns, sold in little white tubes, rather expensive, to grease it.
You can use silicon fat, but I think almost any temperature-resistant LIGHT fat will do it. Also clean the lens.
Just take a cotton bud moistened with a little bit of glass-cleaning-fluid. Be careful, because you could damage the suspension of the lens. Lubricating is effective in at least 95% of cases! (Thanks to Norbert Fischer for this tip)
Re Lubes: Super Lube is a bit thick for sled rails, I do use a little on sled gears, and a thin silicon based oil for the rails, comes as a service oil by a Creag I think. Panasonic charge NZ$100 for a Lube kit for servicing Audio CD's, some are greases and some are oils, these are in very small 18mm tubs, 3 or 4 from memory.
The Lube stuff sold for those Plastic nicad battery racing cars (Tamia?) would be good if it is still sold, they had special greases for plastic/metal and Silicon oils and at a good price. (Thanks to The Kiwi for this tip)